Pankow, Berlin guide

The jewel in Pankow’s crown is Schönhausen Palace. Gifted as a summer residence to Prussian Queen Elisabeth Christine by Frederick the Great in 1740, today it offers an exciting look into a bygone era that’s been beautifully preserved. For a wholly different style of architecture, check out the neighbourhood’s UNESCO-listed modernist housing estates.

The Weißensee Jewish Cemetery is the largest active Jewish cemetery in Europe. During World War II, Jewish people hid from the Nazis inside its opulent mausoleums. Stroll its ivy-strewn avenues as you contemplate lives taken too soon. Men are kindly asked to cover their heads — a ‘kippah’ (cap worn in the Jewish faith) can be borrowed when you enter.

Strandbad Weißensee draws crowds in summer. The lake’s sandy beach, non-swimmer area and children’s playground make it particularly popular with families. It also boasts a cocktail bar and cafe. When temperatures plummet, Stadtbad Oderberger Straße is the place to go for a dip. These opulent pools and sauna in the Hotel Oderberger are open to all, though non-guests will need a ticket.

Marionette theatre has a history stretching back centuries in Germany. The Felicio Theatre brings tales from German folklore to life, including Brothers Grimm favourites like Little Red Riding Hood and Rumplestiltskin, as well as operas and operettas. Budding astronomers will want to visit the Zeiss Großplanetarium. See stars, planets and moons projected on its 14-metre-high dome.

The Museum in the Kulturbrauerei examines everyday life under communism. From a newsstand packed with propaganda to the hunk of junk motor known as the Trabant, this is a fascinating peep over the Berlin Wall into the USSR-controlled East. Don’t miss this Pankow museum to gain a deeper understanding of this chapter in German history.

Head to bohemian Prenzlauer Berg for the best restaurants in Pankow, including some of the most authentic Southeast Asian spots in the city. Full of trees and cobblestones, the square at Kollwitzplatz is one of Berlin’s most charming. Watch the world go by from an al fresco table while kids let loose in the park at its heart.

Within the wider Pankow borough, you’ll find the neighbourhood of Prenzlauer Berg, home to some of the area’s best nightlife. The Kulturbrauerei complex is a former brewery brimming with bars, restaurants, nightclubs and a cinema. But to get a taste of Berlin’s more raucous nightlife, head to the neighbouring borough of Friedrichshain-Kreuzberg.

Trendy Prenzlauer Berg has loads of stylish indie boutiques. On Sundays, the shops close and the flea markets come to life. Once you’ve picked up a knick-knack from the Mauerpark flea market, head to the amphitheatre for karaoke, where brave souls offer themselves up to an ever-encouraging crowd.

Christmas markets are huge in Germany. Norse folklore is the focus of the Lucia Christmas market at the Kulturbrauerei. Warming Scandinavian treats on offer include Swedish ‘glögg’ (similar to mulled wine) and moose ‘goulash’ (meat and vegetable stew). The high point is a parade featuring Saint Lucia and her merry cast of candelabras, gnomes and gingerbread men.