The best things to see and do in Naples
A beautiful mess of a city, Naples has some stories to tell…
Of centuries-old art and civilisation lying beneath an irrepressible soul that has the power to cast a hypnotic spell. Expect sparks to fly between its gritty street life, ancient castles, faded mansions and the hulking crater of Vesuvius.
What to expect in Naples
Food, culture, bustling streets and piping hot pizzas
Italy’s Queen of the South is no wallflower. It’s chaotic, gritty and sprawling with snarling traffic. You’ll find throngs of tourists and gossiping locals. Heated debates in the shade of its alleyways and football-wielding kids. Vendors doling out piping hot pizza. There are taxis, cars and death-wishing Vespa drivers everywhere. Some areas remain rough-around-the-edges, but huge swathes of regeneration have spruced up the city, morphing it into a collage of cultures and neighbourhoods. Our advice? Embrace the cacophony, follow the lead of the locals who have mastered la dolce vita (‘the sweet life’) and dive right in.
Naples best neighbourhoods
This is where to spend your time in Naples.
Centro Storico
Old world Naples
Wander around the sepia streets of this neighbourhood buzzing with Vespas and an entrepreneurial swagger. Look up to catch Neapolitans gossiping across their balconies strung with washing and tick off its collection of elaborate churches – from Santa Chiara to the Church of the Gesù Nuovo – before gazing at Caravaggio’s Seven Acts of Mercy altarpiece at Pio Monte.
Chiaia
Waterside and upscale
This waterside district is Naples’ upscale quarter, lined with high-end shops, bars and restaurants where bronzed Neapolitans clink glasses of Aperol on sun-blushed terraces. Head away from Piazza Vittoria and down a narrow staircase and you’ll pop out on some rocks where locals dangle their toes in the glittering water.
Posillipo
All about the views
For killer views of the Bay of Naples, Capri and the Sorrentine peninsula, head across to this well-healed neighbourhood. Lavish villas tumble down the hillside in amongst tufts of green and as you near the coastline, there are hidden coves and grottos filled with perma-tanned locals.
Vomero
Tourists and views
Catch the funicular railway up to this district with its tourist crowds and distant views of Mount Vesuvius. The mediaeval fortress of the Castle of St Elmo and St Martin’s Museum are worth a nosey, before gazing up at the Bourbon-era mansions along Antignano and mooching around its daily market.
Quartieri Spagnoli
Spanish quarter
Join the queues spilling out of the tiny cafes in this ‘Spanish’ quarter for takeaways of arancini balls, aubergine fritters or sugar-coated sfogliatella pastries. A chaotic labyrinth packed with artisan workshops, barbers, bars and crumbly curiosity shops, it’s a veritable hothouse for remarkable personalities.
Naples’ intriguing history
Loud and messy and reverberating with an infectious energy, Naples sits in the shadow of Mount Vesuvius on the shores of the Med. Founded by the Greeks in the 8th century BCE, it’s one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world. You’ll find remnants of its past everywhere, from its ancient Greek wall fortifications, a Roman-era theatre and a Norman Castle, to its crumbly UNESCO-listed historical centre, timeworn churches and Renaissance-era piazzas. Once an important stop for artists and writers on the Grand Tour, it’s now a thoroughly intoxicating city break that’s shed its reputation for crime and reels you in as you mooch around its theatrical streets.
6 of the best things to do in Naples
From pizza to Pompeii
From hiking up the slopes of Vesuvius to exploring the ancient city of Pompeii and wandering down the buzzing street of Spaccanapoli, these are the top things to do in Naples.
Pompeii and Herculaneum Tour
Step back in time
Pompeii
Go with a guide to uncover these ghostly yet remarkably well-preserved cities, both of which were buried beneath layers of burning stone after the eruption of Mount Vesuvius in AD79. Wander around houses, temples, shops and cafes for an engrossing if haunting step back in time.
Mount Vesuvius hike
Up an active volcano
Naples
Stagger up the steep, 4-mile ‘gran cono’ trail to the peak of this active volcano and gaze towards the Bay of Naples or into the deep volcanic crater. The last time it blew its top was in 1944 and volcanologists predict it will happen in the next 20-200 years.
Cultural tips
Tipping isn’t always expected, but leave 10-15% for great service.
Neapolitans will always appreciate you trying to speak a little Italian.
When visiting churches, dress appropriately, avoid eating and be quiet inside.
Pizza-making class
Chef’s kiss perfection
Naples
You’ll struggle to find a bad slice of pizza in Naples, where it’s believed Raffaele Esposito conjured the first pizza margherita in 1889. But to truly relish the wood-fired experience, join a local chef and prepare a flawless Neapolitan pizza.
Castel dell’Ovo
Castle of the Egg
Naples
Walk up the ramparts of this Norman-era castle to stare at the startling ocean views and art galleries that occasionally pop up inside. Legend has it an enchanted egg is buried deep underground and if broken, both the castle and Naples will fall.
Spaccanapoli
Colourful street
Naples
Join the throngs along this colourful street squiggling through Naples’ Centro Storico. Here Vespas buzz, washing hangs from on high, shrines to the blessed Mary are strung outside houses, and pizzas arrive to hastily laid tables with shots of limoncello.
Capodimonte Museum
Iconic art
Naples
Linger over works by Raphael, Titian and Caravaggio at this gargantuan museum housed in a palace built for the Bourbon rulers of the Kingdom of Naples and Sicily. Catch the shuttle bus up Capodimonte hill and wander around its grassy fields when you’ve had your fill of art.
Naples hotels
Wondering where to stay in Naples? Here’s our pick of the hotels.
Chiaia B&B
Low-key adults-only
A low-key adults-only bolthole where breakfasts of coffee, local cheese, homespun fig jam and just-baked breads are served on its shady terrace with views of the Bay of Naples. You’re detached from the irreverent buzz of the city but close to the waterfront where boats whisk red-cheeked tourists to Capri and Ischia.
B&B Ersilia
Cheap and cheerful
A cheap and cheerful B&B in the heart of the Centro Storico with air conditioning and homemade bread for breakfast. It’s basic and traditional and it almost feels like you’re staying with a distant Italian relative. But its in-the-thick-of-it location is fantastic, with the quarter’s enchanting churches a short stroll away.
B&B Dipintodiblu
Small B&B
Expect classic Med style interiors at this small B&B reached by the funicular on Posillipo hill. Staff are extremely knowledgeable about the city. Dreamy sea views unfold from the best rooms. And breakfasts of sfogliatelle (flaky pastries) oozing with lemony ricotta set you up for a day exploring.
Napoli Porta Di Mare
Great location
Squirrelled away in a fifth-floor apartment, this hotel sits between Centro Storico and Quarteri Spagnoli and you’re surrounded by churches, ancient ruins, restaurants and drinking dens. Most rooms come with air con and balconies where you can gaze at the cacophony and characters aplenty from on high.
Average costs in Naples
In Naples, you can expect to pay:
Meal at a decent restaurant: €30-€50 per person
Beer: €3-€5 per bottle
Street food: €2-€5 per item
Napoli Pizza: €5-€10 per pizza
Gelato: €2-€5 per scoop
Naples is a place of temperamental charm. Passionate, edgy and irrepressible, it’ll spark up a love affair you never realised you needed. There are crumbly back streets, reinvented quarters and ancient relics with stories to tell.
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